End of Part I of the Africa Twin Adventure

And just like that we have come to the end of Part I of our African Twin Adventure.

Paula will be going back to Lisbon, PO and I will now go to Maputo, MZ to meet Paulo Sadio who will be my companion for Part II of the Africa Twin Adventure.

Click HERE to see Facebook Group of our Africa Adventure

If you would like to follow us on Part II, click HERE !

Thoughts on riding in some of the countries in Southern Africa

On this section I would like to write about how it has been riding in the 4 countries I have done so far.
The first change I had to get used to was riding on the left. It was a bit difficult in the beginning and it still requires some thinking before you turn specially turning right. It is more tricky when there are no other vehicles around because you cannot follow them. With nearly 8,000kms of practice it is becoming more normal.
One of the decisions one has to make on these trips is what tire to use. You can use a normal road tire (not recommended), a more 80 (road)/20 (off-road) type of tire, or a 50/50 tire. I decided to use 50/50 off-road tires. I am using Michelin Anakee Wilds and Continental TKC80. I have done nearly 8,000 kms on them and they need to get changed so I would say they last max 8,000 kms.
Apart from a number of cites in South Africa, Windhoek in Namibia and other capital cities, you cannot get these tires anywhere so I would strongly recommend you carry a front and a back tire with you in these trips. I was only carrying a back tire because I thought I would need to exchange it in the middle of the trip but in the end that was not necessary. However I had an issue with a puncture on my front tire that showed to me that if the tire was slashed I would not be able to get one for days so I have now decided to carry a set of tires (front and back), as well as a set of tubes with me.
I am very happy with the choice of the more off-road tires as they are best in my opinion to withstand the harsh conditions of the roads, even when in asphalt, and they have the advantage of giving extra grip when going off-road.

Videos of some of the roads

South Africa

It is like driving in Europe or United States. Conditions of roads are very good, out of the cities there is not too much traffic and in general I have found the drivers not too aggressive (compared with Morocco or even with Italy). They do not move in the lane when they see a motorcycle so you have to be extra careful when weaving your way through the traffic and you cannot move as fast as you move in Europe where drivers most of the time move a bit to let you pass.
There is strong police presence on the roads with radar so do not recommend going over the speed limits on the highways. In the Free State (one of the provinces in South Africa) I saw more police per km than anywhere else I have ridden. There must have been speed checking with radar guns every 50kms or so.
In general we had good weather and encountered no rain. On the entrance to Cape Town we had to cross some passes and got hammered a bit by high winds.
You do encounter quite a lot of road works going on as they are keeping the roads in good condition.
All of the roads we did were asphalt and I would say you probably do not need to be off asphalt to visit most the places you want to go to.
Most places we rode had well kept fences on both sides of the road so you rarely see animals on the side of the road.
We had no issue with gas and there was gas and quality of it was good (95).
Most roads speed limit was 120km/h.

Namibia

We spent about 30% of our ride through Namibia on off-road so you would need to have an adventure type of motorcycle to visit some of the must see places. Conditions of the asphalt roads were very good. Very similar to South Africa. Conditions of the off-roads vary greatly and I would recommend you do practice extensively on riding off-road before attempting doing these roads. The distances are very long and you would need to feel comfortable riding for 4 to 5 hours under these conditions before attempting to do this in a foreign country. Do NOT recommend you take a passenger on these roads as there are plenty of places where the bike loses traction on the back tire and your passenger and you will not enjoy this. I would recommend you bring down the tire pressure to about 1.3-1.5 bar on both tires.
Close to Luderitz (actually anywhere close to the coast) there was a lot of wind and win some cases there was a lot of sand being blown into the road and thus on the bike and myself, so I would advise you only attempt this if you are comfortable riding under strong windy conditions. If you are an experienced rider then this should not be an issue, if not be careful.
We did not see much police presence. We kept to speed limits (most of the time it was 120km/h) on the asphalt roads. On the off-road sections, there was no speed limits mentioned but we kept to about 80-100 km/h, but in some very rutty sections the car had to go down to 30-40km/h. The bike can easily keep an higher speed.
We had to be a bit more careful with gas as there are long sections without gas presence. We got a map which showed where there was gas and were quite careful to fill up every time we would start a longer section without gas presence. As we never did any day longer than 500kms we knew we could fill up once per day and pretty much be ok wth gas as we had more than 500 kms autonomy.
As the country is sparsely populated there is not a lot of traffic on the road. Most of the time we would go a long time before we passed another car. Although we saw many more cars, even Windhoek has only 350,000 people so not a lot.�We did catch high temperatures in the desert and low temperature by the coast. I would recommend the use of a CamelBack.

Botswana

Road conditions were much more tricky in Botswana. It is night and day when compared to South Africa and Namibia.
The biggest problems are holes in the asphalt and lose animals on the road.
When I speak about holes, I am not speaking about normal size holes you may see in a road in a western country. I am speaking about huge craters that if your wheel goes in there you most probably will have a flat and may even fall. There is a possibility your wheel will be damaged and you may even have a suspension issue. And you have kms and kms like this. These holes are on both sides of the road so oncoming traffic is also trying to deal with them. On the bike things are a bit easier because most of the time you can weave through the holes, but in a car you cannot escape all the holes, so you have to decrease significantly your speed to make it.
Adding to this the donkeys, horses, cattle and goats that are grazing on the side of the road and now and then decide to cross it makes riding in Botswana quite dangerous. You have to be super alert and cannot go at speeds higher than 100km/h and you will probably average 80km/h.
We did not see a lot of police presence and you do cross quite a lot of trucks as they use these roads to do the distribution of goods throughout the country.
We stayed only on asphalt roads in Botswana but we did have to do some off-road (very little) in some parts where they may have been working on the road. No major issues though.
We did not cross any mountains or passes in Botswana and also did not get any rain and there were no strong wind conditions. we did encounter high temperatures so riding early in the day and CamelBacks are strongly suggested.
Drivers are courteous and give right of way and we did not feel any issues with over aggressive driving. In general they keep to speed limits.
On the towns you have to be careful with pedestrian traffic as they walk and stand by the side of the road asking for lifts.
Wild animals are seen by Botswana as strong source of income so there is a strong policy against poaching, so you do see them on the road. There are usually warnings against wild animals and in some places you are strongly advised to be careful when stopping by the side of the road. We did see elephants and buffalo as well as different types of antelope on the road. There is a strong temptation to try to get close for a picture when you see one of these more unusual animals but do remember that motorcycles do not have a reverse gear and you should always have an escape route in case they charge you. Their recommendation is not to come closer than 50m from these animals.

Mozambique

So far only spent a couple of days riding in Mozambique. One day in Maputo and the other traveling to South Africa. Will update this as we do another 10 days shortly.
Road conditions were better than Botswana but not as good as South Africa. Cars are older and specially in Maputo you have to be very careful with pedestrians. There are a lot of people on the road selling goods, walking, catching lifts, crossing etc. so strong suggestion is have loud pipes and significantly decrease speed, so you pre-warn them you are coming and if they do not see you, you have time to take evasive action.
Saw little police presence on the road. Outside Maputo traffic was quite low. There are lose animals on the road but not as much as in Botswana.
Drivers are not too aggressive but like the other countries in Africa, they are not used to have big bikes come past them in the middle of the traffic so you need to do this in a careful manner.
Met some road works and the way they do it is that they work on one of the lanes and use the other lane for traffic so you have to wait your turn. Sometimes these sections are quite long and so is the wait for your turn, so it is an opportunity to get off the bike and stretch the legs. If I could (sometimes there was not enough space to squeeze through), I always went to the front of the line and was the first one to go when it was our chance to move.
I only traveled on asphalt roads but sometimes the wind has blown sand or debris on the middle of the road so I do recommend having off-road tires and adventure type of motorcycles.

Vaalwater, ZA to Midrand, ZA

Click HERE for all the pictures of our last tour day and our stay with family in South Africa

Serowe, BG to Vaalwater, ZA

Last day in Botswana started quite early as we wanted to see Rhinos in the Sanctuary. When the guide arrived at 6:00 he told us the probability of seeing the Rhinos was very low because temperature had dropped during the night and as Rhinos do not like the cold they usually go into hiding. We drove for about 2 hours and as the guide had predicted we were not able to see any Rhinos. It was a real pity but that is the reality of game drives, sometimes you see them and other no. We did see other animals.
At about 8:15 we got back to the cabin and started our packing. I had to drop the air pressure on the tires and also take out the side bags so I could stand up and ride the sand the “right way”. It made a big difference.
We stopped for breakfast and were told that the day before the rhinos had been to the restaurant and had drank water from the pool. Unfortunately they did not come when we were there but we had a great breakfast but everywhere you looked there were warning signs that you may meet them. Even the satellite antenna was enclosed by a fence.
As we were leaving, a couple was next to our bike and the lady asked if my tire was alright. Unfortunately it was not. By bringing down the tire pressure I had impacted the valve and the tube was losing air. Lucky for us the Rhino Sanctuary has a mechanic on site that brought the right tool to fix the valve and I was able to fill the tire up.
We left the Rhino Sanctuary and went back to Serowe and were able to see beautiful jacarandas on the road.
We then made our way back towards the border, Martin’s Drift. The border passage was without any issues and we passed the Limpopo river that divides the two countries.
As we entered South Africa it was amazing the difference of the roads and also the scenery. Mountains and much more green.
For lunch we stopped at a beautiful place and had good South African beef and a milkshake.
It was still early so we decided to ride/drive for another 2 hours and stay in a game farm.
This whole area in the northern side of South Africa bordering Botswana and Zimbabwe is full of game farms. There are very well kept and the large fences ensure the animals do not come to the road which is great for riding at night.
The ride into the game farm was not easy as there was an electrifired fence on one side and the roads were sandy. We eventually made it to our cabin and relaxed after another full day.
The game farm was very nice and our room was very spacious.

Make Life A Ride !

Facebook post with some photos of the DAY

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Nata, BG to Serowe, BG (Rhino Sanctuary)

Today we would ride from Nata to Serowe where we would stay at the Khama Rhino Sanctuary and take a morning game drive to see if we can spot Rhinos.
We were told that the road from Nata to Francistown was ver bad but then after that the conditions would improve.
Had breakfast and then spent about an hour bird watching at the lodge. They had an amazing number of different bird species that comes to bath and drink at the sanctuary they had at the lodge.
Morning light usually brings out the singing out of the birds so you wake up every morning to the sound of different type of birds depending where you are in the country.
The road was indeed very bad in some places but not as bad as Maun to Getta so we were pleasantly surprised we were able to make a good average.
We arrived in Francistown which is the largest city we had been to in Botswana and after filling up with gas looked for a place to eat lunch. We found this pearl, Roots of Africa, that was a little oasis in the middle of this city. We really enjoyed the time we spent there.
We then started our way south towards Serowe. The road out of Francistown is a two lane (each side) road so we could push up to 120km/h and made some good time to Palapye where we turned west towards Serowe. The traffic increased and we had a number of holes on the street to deal with.
As we got closer the Rhino Sanctuary things improved and we had a very nice and relaxing ride to the gate where we registered and were that the road to the cabin was quite sandy and I could leave the bike in the parking lot. I decided to take the bike into the park and it was a bear as I did not take out the cases and did not bring down the air pressure of the tires. I had to stop a number of times to get my breadth back and also to give a breather to the bike that started overheating.
Note to self: tomorrow, no bags and low tire pressure.
We eventually made it to the cabin was was very much in the middle of nowhere, parked the bike and car and went inside for a refreshing shower.
We decided for the night not to brave the sand and go back to the restaurant but rather stay in and eat in the cabin.
This would be our last night in Botswana and like before in Namibia, we were already missing the great time we had enjoyed in this country. We went to bed early as next morning we would have to be ready at 6:00 for the game drive.

Make Life A Ride !

Facebook post with some photos of the DAY

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Encounters - German Couple on F800GS

Encounters ...
This is a German couple that was camping in Nata Lodge.
They are riding a BMW F800GS.
They started in Walvis Bay and will be riding for 3 months through Namibia, Botswana and mainly South Africa.
They prefer camping and travel only in the mornings because of the heat and travel max 200kms per day.
The tougher part of the journey for them will be the off-road in Namibia. Two up will be very difficult and suggested they rent a car to follow the bike for that section.

Facebook post with some photos of the Encounter

Kesane, BG to Nata, BG

All good things come to an end and so our stay in Kesane and Chobe is done. What great days we have spent here.
Before we left though we went for a drive around the area. Saw a lot of trucks that have to queue up to cross into Zimbabwe and Zambia.
Next stop for us would be Nata where we would stay on the way to the Khama Rhino Sanctuary before leaving Botswana to South Africa.
We had already done the road between Kesane to Nata, when we came up north. It is in good condition and we made good time to Nata.
However this time we had two elephant encounters on the road and I was able to take the picture I so much wanted from this Africa trip which was my bike and I, the road we were travelling and an elephant on the same frame. I am thrilled we were able to achieve this ;-).
We stayed at the Nata Lodge which is a very nice place about 7kms south of Nata.
The room even had air conditioning which was very welcomed after the ride under 35C temperatures.
As we arrived we noticed a F800GS from Germany with a tent next to it. It belonged to a German couple that had been riding from Namibia (bike arrived in Walvis Bay) and they had done the Caprivi and were on the way down to South Africa. Gave them some advise on the off-road riding in Namibia and strongly suggested that they should no ride two-up on those roads.
For the end of the day we parked the bike and went to the Nata Bird sanctuary to watch the sunset from a man-built platform that borders the Sua Pan which is part of the larger Makgadikgadi, which is very important as a natural habitat.
There are supposed to be 165 different bird species in the sanctuary.
For the evening we had dinner at the lodge under the stars. The temperatures have been great in the evening and we have not had any issues with mosquitoes.

Make Life A Ride !

Facebook post with some photos of the DAY

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Victoria Falls, ZI

After spending a couple of days doing game drives and river cruise in the Chobe National Park, today we would do something quite different. We would take a vehicle that would come and get us at 7:30 and drive to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.
We went through the Namibia and Zimbabwe border posts without any problem although the entrance in Zimbabwe took us longer as there were quite a lot of tourist queuing up.
After the border post we drove for about 45 minutes on a pretty empty and good quality road until we arrived at the town.
Victoria Falls is a tourist Mecca, you see people from different nationalities and the Zimbabweans are constantly trying to sell you something. We quickly got away from the street sellers by getting into the park itself where they are not allowed to sell.
Victoria Falls, although not the highest nor the widest, is classified as the largest falls in the world and in height and width it is only rivaled by Iguazu Falls in South America. It is roughly twice the height of Niagara Falls. So it is a sight to behold. As we are not in the rainy season (usually starts in November), the Falls are far from its full capacity but they are still an amazing sight.
You walk from viewing point to viewing point looking at the Falls from different angles and bacuse of its height the water falling creates a mist that kept us cool eventhough the temperatures were quite high. Although in the flood season you cannot see the foot of the falls, as we were in the dry season we could easily do so which was amazing.
As the river was not too strong, a number of people were bathing in Devil’s Pool (on the Zambia side). This is the ultimate infinity pool. You can walk on the side of the Zambezi to reach the pool, and then the fearless leap into the pool and get pushed to the edge by the force of the river. The view from the edge is supposed to be amazing as you feel the force of the Zambezi flow past you and crash down over the precipice: a hundred meter drop.
The Falls are known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya or The Smoke that Thunders.
After watching the falls we also took a walk to see the bridge that separates Zimbabwe from Zambia.
After walking for a couple of hours, we went to the Lookout Cafe for lunch. The Lookout Cafe has a deck built 120 meters above the Zambezi river and it has great view of the Botoka Gorge. They also offer zip lining and gorge swing but like the banjo jumping on the bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe, they were not operating.
For lunch we had kebabs of Warthog (that tastes like not so fatty pork) and Ostrich (that tastes like beef). All washed down with a great strawberry milkshake.
We spent about 5 hours in the Vic Falls area and thoroughly enjoyed it and would highly recommend it as a stop over for a day or so.
We made our way back to our lodge in Botswana and were quite excited because we had organized a river cruise to what the locals call the Four Corners. This is a place in the junction of the Chobe and the Zambezi rivers where 4 countries meet: Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe. It is the only place in the world where this happens and we were quite glad we made the trip.
The boat cruise was very relaxing and we saw hippos in the water and elephants close by drinking and cool down.
For the evening meal we ate under the stars and spoke about another spectacular day.

Make Life A Ride !

At Victoria Falls, ZI

At the Lookout Cafe in Victoria Falls, ZI

Facebook post with some photos of the DAY

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Chobe National Park, BG

After yesterday´s river cruise, today we did two game drives. One in the morning and the other in the afternoon.
Waking up time was 5:00, so that 5:30 we could go for breakfast and at 6:00 we were in the cars ready to go. Game drives started in Sedudu Gate of the Chobe National Park so we had to make our way to the gates. We drove on a normal road but the driver could not go faster than 60km/h because we are all sitting pretty high up in the car with no wind protection. As in the mornings it is quite cold any faster speed and we would freeze.
Would like to write a bit about the game drive vehicles. They are usually Toyota Land Cruisers with 4 wheel drive, pretty high diameter wheels and they have a cage fitted on them with 4, 6 or 9 places with 2 or 3 rows of seats. The driver usually sits at a lower level and the various rows are at different heights so that the back people can see over the front people. The cars are pretty sturdy and they take a big beating on these drives as the roads are very uneven and quite sandy. I was pretty impressed.
Every time you go into the park you have to register the names of the people going in. The guides handle all that for us and we just sit down and speak to each other discussing what we have seen and what we expect to see. Leopards and Lions are always quite high in the list of wants, but in Chobe the king of the sightings is the elephant and all of us were quite looking forward to see more elephants in their natural habitat. And Chobe did not disappoint, specially in the afternoon drive close to the river we saw hundreds of elephants some of them very close by and others far in the distance. We also saw lions in their most typical stance, sleeping, which it seems they do for 20/24 hours of the day. We had our first sighting of spotted hyenas and also of a sable antelope which is not usually easy to see. The ever present impalas always impress me by their elegance. We saw a giraffe drinking which is an interesting sight as she has to go down on its legs and because she becomes totally vulnerable to attackers in that position, before she does it she needs to feel totally sure there are no enemies around.
We also spent some time watching a baboon tribe doing its thing. The moms taking care of the babies, the youngsters fighting and the females grooming the males and all the frolics baboons do.
At the end of each drive we always have a time to get off the vehicles, stretch our legs and enjoy a beverage which can be as mild as tea or as potent as a whisky (usually in the afternoons).
In this specific occasion we took a picture of both of us to remind us of this beautiful place.
I have had the privilege of visiting many game reserves and I can say that without a doubt that for animal viewing Chobe is one of the best. Only saw more animals in Kenya but it was a much smaller reserve.
For the evening the staff at the lodge had a special dance and singing program all organized for us. We were able to learn a bit more about the Botswana culture and folklore.
Botswana has impressed us both by the way they are trying to grow up as a young nation who has been independent for 51 years. Paula spends a lot of the time in the car and she listens to the radio station and she mentions the programs are very informative and they try to instill in the people who listen strong values. Everywhere we went we found the people super well educated, friendly and always in a good mood. Whenever they encounter a problem they come together and try to solve it always with a positive attitude. We also enjoyed a lot the people in Namibia, Found them to also be very humble and eager to help, however if you listen on the radio the discussions are much more about respect, less racism and reconciliation showing that they are even younger in terms of building their nation.

Make Life A Ride !

Elephants in Chobe National Park, BG

Facebook post with some photos of the DAY

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Gwetta, BG to Kesane, BG

Difficult day to wake up after the very tiring day yesterday. Had a strong breakfast and lots of coffee but first 100kms to Nata were not easy.
We stopped for gas and I found some bottles of Powerade. Bought 4 and had one immediately and somehow this did the trick that strong breakfast and coffee were not able to do. Energy started creeping into my body and riding became a pleasure again. It was very hot so decided to stop every hour and hydrate. It was a wise decision because I started to feelstronger and stronger. Every hour I would drink a Powerade and we arrived at our lodge in Kesane at 14:30. We were informed that we had been booked for a river cruise at 15:00 so we had very little time to unpack, have a shower, put on a set of clean clothes, grab something quick to eat and get on the boat before it left for the cruise. We made it and we were so glad we did because we were able to see another beautiful sunset as well as great game viewing from different angles with different sunlight conditions.
Chobe National park river viewing has the particularity that you can view animals that are on a island and you can get very close to them. We had great sightings of crocodiles, elephants, impalas, buffalos and many different types of birds.
It was clear to us that the Chobe area would be superior in terms of game viewing to the Okavango Delta.
The sunset was spectacular and we took pictures with different backgrounds.
We then went to the lodge which we were extremely happy with. We cannot say enough about the hospitality of the Botswana people and how they keep saying that the zebra is the national animal because their first president (who was the father of the existing president) believed white people (white in the zebra) should live together in peace with black (black in the zebra) people.
They are a gentle, usually happy and patriotic people that love their president and want the country to get better for their children. Having visited many countries, I have been very impressed at the national pride I have found and how the colors of the flag are visible in so many places. Without a doubt, an example for other countries to learn from.
We never felt threatened , on the contrary we felt safer than places in Europe or the US. Most people speak English so getting oneself understood is not difficult. Gas stations are a safe haven where you can find gas but also food and drinks as well as sim cards and also information.
We had our own table for dinner. This was different from Okavango Delta where we ate as a group. Food was good.
It had been a long day and in the morning we needed to wake up early (5:00) for the game drive so we went to bed early. Unfortunately, internet connectivity has been very poor in most of the country. Clearly something that needs to be improved outside the larger cities.
It has been a long but very profitable day and from what we have seen so far, Kesane and Chobe is going to be one of the highlights of our trip.

Make Life a Ride !

Unique place on Earth: A Quadripoint where you can see 4 countires - Namibia, Zambia, Botswana and Zimbabwe

Facebook post with photos of the DAY

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Okavango Delta, BG to Gwetta, BG

We woke up quite early (5:00) as we wanted to do a final game drive in the Okavango Delta. We would do the drive with our usual guide and a couple that we had been doing other activities together. The flight was at 11:20 back to Maun so at about 10:30 we said our goodbyes to our newly acquired friends and made our way with our guide Emmax towards the airstrip. There was already another Land Cruiser waiting on the beginning of the runway with guests for the same flight. Emmax went to speak to the other guide and then drove towards the end of the runway. He told us he needed to do this as they always had one car on one side and the other car on the other side of the runway as their job was to clear the runway for the oncoming plane. As I was thinking about this logistic, one giraffe started to cross the airstrip. We waited about 15 minutes for the plane to arrive and had another giraffe and an elephant making their way through the airstrip. Fortunately as the plane approached everything was clear and it landed safely. We boarded and after some safety discussion we made our way back to Maun. It took us 25 minutes and it was a bumpy ride. This time I was abe to see some animals from the plane but too small for pictures.
We arrived in Maun, picked up our bike, car and luggage and ate in a restaurant just in front of the Maun airport. True to what we had heard about Botswana not stealing, everything was in perfect order and nothing was missing. The bike started first time.
We made our way out of very busy Maun towards Gwetta, a small little town in the middle of nowhere as we stayed at Planet Baobab for the evening. The special thing about this part of the world are these amazing trees, called Baobabs. There are 9 different species of these trees in the world and in Africa there are two. They can live up to athousand years or longer. I had heard so much about Planet Baobab but it did not meet my expectations. It was the weakest of the places we stayed in Botswana (actually in the whole trip), but the trees were impressive.
The ride from Maun to Gwetta was one of the toughest we did because of the heat and the state of the road. The asphalt was gutted for many kms and although i could weave through the holes, Paula had lots of difficulty with the car so a ride that should have taken us 3 hours took us nearly 5 hours. I got to Gwetta totally exhausted and wondered how I would do over 500 kms to Kesane the next day.
I was happy I decided to stop at Gwetta rather than go on another 100+kms to Nata. Waking up at 5:00, all the excitement of the day and the heat on the ride were taking its toll.
I needed a good night´s sleep and quick recovery.
There are always things that one does not expect in these trips and in Africa they seem to multiply. One had to constantly adapt which makes the whole experience a true adventure.

Make Life a Ride !

Facebook post with some photos of the DAY

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Encounters - Martin and Mark from Czech Republic

Martin and Mark are from the Czech Republic.
Met them in Maun airport as we arrived from the Okavango Delta.
They had just arrived and were planning what to do next. Gave them some ideas based on my experience so far in Botswana.
Mark had spent some time in an Erasmus program at Universidade de Aveiro in Portugal.

Facebook post with some photos of the Encounter 

Ghanzi, BG to Okavango Delta, BG (flight from Naum, BG)

When we started organizing this trip one of the places we wanted to visit was the Okavango Delta.
We had to leave Ghanzi before 9 so we would be in Maun between 12:00 to 12:30 to pick up our flight to the Okavango Delta. There are a number of different ways to get there. We chose to fly because it would only take us 20 minutes to fly to the airstrip closer to our lodge.
The views from the plane were unique and I kept clicking away with my camera.
We had chosen to visit the Moremi Game Reserve as I had read there was a good selection of animals and there were not many people around. It turned out to be a good decision as the flight was pretty fast and our experience in the reserve was very good.
There are many different types of lodges in Botswana. We wanted to stay in a smaller type of lodge, no more than 12 tents and we intended to do glamping (glamorous camping).
We stayed two nights and did a river cruise and three game drives. We were very impressed with the service we experienced as well as the quality and friendliness of the managers, guides and staff.
We woke up at 5:30 to have a quick breakfast and then left with the guide for a game drive at 6:30. We would come back at 11:00 and have brunch. Then we would have free time until 15:30 when we would meet with the guide and then leave for a 16:00 game drive or river cruise. We would watch the sunset at around 18:30 and then come back to the lodge where we would have dinner at about 20:00.
The camp was virtually open and animals were free to roam around in it. We had to be escorted whenever we wanted to walk between the more social places (dining room, camp fire place, lounge) and our rooms. During these walks we saw antelope, monkey and baboons, many types of birds and we had a visiting hipo as well as buffalo so I was glad we had a guide with us. I enjoyed a lot the river cruise, one does not see as many animals but being on a calm river, on a boat watching animals and enjoying the sunset is beautiful. We had to choose a sundowner drink that we enjoyed with the boat stopped and watching the sunset. Our choice was Gin and Tonic for me and Amarula for Paula.
The land safaris were also very nice and we kept very much to the same area around the lodge. The best sightings we saw were of the lions and the wild dogs, although we also enjoyed the open fields where zebras, antelope and giraffe gathered, ate the grass and watched for carnivores.
We had many encounters with elephants which are so big and yet very docile. The animal the guides were most afraid of were buffalo. They kept saying they were very unpredictable.
On the last day the guide said he would take us to the white tree which is a tree in the middle of a swamp area with thousands of birds around. The tree has that color from the poop of this specific bird that nests on the tree. After looking around for crocodiles and other dangerous animals, we stepped out of our vehicle and walked around and took some group pictures. It was an amazing experience and we felt as the only people in the Universe.
We also had the opportunity of meeting a number of people that shared these two days with us as they put us together in same groups for different activities. We met people from the UK, United States, Germany, Italy, Switzerland and Argentina and also some locals. By far the nationality we have met the most are Germans. Now and then we come across large groups of Americans but we have seen and met more Germans.
One special mention to the tents we stayed in. When you think that this is in the middle of nowhere it is amazing to see what it takes to make one of these tents. They are on top of stilts and have an outside area with two chairs where you can sit watching the river and animal (specially bird) life. They have a strong net covering the main structure. There is a main room with a queen size bed with a beautiful net covering it. In the main room there is a desk and also plenty of sitting and storage space. Behind the bed there is a corridor with some shelves and a safe. and then there is a wall with a door that separates the bathroom which is divided into 3 stalls: the toilet, the shower and the basin area. All of this is on a high quality wooden structure and the divisions are well done with wood. The roof is thatched. The tent has various “windows” ((4 on each side), that you can just leave them open (this means just the net) or drop a canvas for privacy.
We had a great time at the Okavango Delta and I would very much recommend it as a bucket list item to do once in a lifetime.

Make Life a Ride !

Facebook post with some pictures of the DAYs in the Okavango Delta

Click HERE for the pictures of DAY 1 in the Okavango

Click HERE for the pictures of DAY 2 in the Okavango

Windhoek, NM to Ghanzi, BG

Today we entered Botswana and what a game changer that would turn out to be.
We started the day by first going to the local BMW Motorrad dealership in Windhoek to buy some oil. Not very impressed with the service but we did get the oil. After meeting Riaan yesterday for lunch we decided we would stop in Gobabis for lunch. We really did not know where and nothing looked very appealing. As we were stopped looking for a place in Google, the owner of the service station where we were, told us that we should just leave the bikes there and go around the corner for a good meal. He specifically suggested we tried the strawberry milkshake. Let me tell you, it was amazing. When I was a kid we would come was a family to South Africa and one of the highlights of the trip was the milkshakes, and that milkshake tasted exactly the same as the others so many years ago. It was deja vu every time I took a sip. Will not forget the milkshake in Gobabis, Namibia. Paula also enjoyed her burger.
We then asked the owner if he knew a Riaan that we had met the day before and he said he just worked across the street. What are the odds ?
We left Gobabis and headed towards the border which we passed in about 40 minutes. Spent longest in the Botswana side but no issues.
As we were entering Botswana the first things that striked me were the much worst road conditions and the lose cattle on the road.
Today was a connection ride to get us to Maun, the center of the Okavango Delta.

Make Life a Ride !

Facebook post with some photos of the DAY

Click HERE for all the photos of the DAY !

Sunsets in Namibia

Facebook post with some sunsets we have seen in Namibia !

Swakopmund, NM to Windhoek, NM

After our ride to the Cape Cross, today we would be going to Windhoek the capital of Namibia.
There is an asphalt road in great condition from Swakopmund to Windhoek, however we would take a little detour in the first part of our ride to visit the Moon Landscape area which is part of the Welwitschia Drive. The valleys of the Swakop River is an spectacular sight. We took the opportunity of stopping many times and take pictures. We also past the farm and oasis of Goanikontes, where its green and lushy vegetation is a starkly different from the barren land of the Namibian desert.
For lunch we stopped in a farm just at the entrance of Usakos. Usakos is a very nice city at the foot of some amazing hills in the distance. While we were eating a BMW GSA (newer model) entered the parking lot and we met Riaan who works in the city of Gogais, Namibia (which is the last city in Namibia before you leave to Botswana (we would pass it the next day).
The arrival in Windhoek was a bit of a shock. We had not seen many cars in the last days and meeting the hustle and bustle of a capital city was not fun. Windhoek is not a big city with 330k of its 2.5M inhabitants living there.
Our accommodation for the night was very nice and it was situated in an area of town with a lot of other similar type of accommodations (small boutique hotel, b&b).
For dinner we went to one of the town´s most well known restaurants, Joe´s Beer Garden and we sat outside and shared a table with two young men from Germany. It was fun speaking with them about ours and their travels. One of the young man had the courage to eat a skewer of different types of meat. He did not like the springbok and found the tastiest the crocodile.
We went relatively early to bed as tomorrow we would enter Botswana and had a long ride plus a border crossing to do.

Make Life a Ride !

Facebook post with some photos of the DAY

Click HERE for all the photos of the DAY !

Encounters - Mini in Windhoek

Em Windhoek, fomos comer ao Joe's Beerhouse que é um lugar 🔝.
Qual foi a minha surpresa quando vi um Mini que dizia Maputo-Luanda.
Pedi mais informações e a estória está no menu.
Espectáculo !

Facebook post with some photos of the Encounter

Swakopmund, NM to Cape Cross, NM and back

After yesterday's long ride on the dirt, today we would be in Swakopmund and take a short ride 130 kms north to Cape Cross.
As we were not in a hurry we woke up later than usual and went for breakfast which was very nice. The weather was overcast and temperatures stayed most of the day below the 20C. An extra layer was necessary for the ride up the Skeleton Coast as there was wind coming from the west inland and that would decrease the temperature I would feel on the bike.
Before starting our journey we stopped at the Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) offices to get our permit to the moon landscape that we want to visit tomorrow.
The ride up the Skeleton Coast is a unique experience as you have the ocean on one side and the desert on the other and you travel in the middle of this vast area that is mostly soft sand interrupted by rocky outcrops.
"The Bushmen of the Namibian interior called the region "The Land God Made in Anger", while Portuguese sailors once referred to it as "The Gates of Hell".
The name Skeleton Coast was coined by John Henry Marsh as the title for the book he wrote chronicling the shipwreck of the Dunedin Star.
On the coast the upwelling of the cold Benguela current gives rise to dense ocean fogs (called "cassimbo" by the Angolans) for much of the year. There is a constant, heavy surf on the beaches."
Every so often there are entrances into the beach which are used by fishermen to take their cars and fish by the seaside. They use these amazingly long fishing poles that they usually carry in front of their vehicles on special installed pole carriers.
We were able to get really close to the ocean with the bike and listen to its mighty roar as it tried to climb the sandy dunes.
There are supposedly several thousands of shipwrecks strewn across Namibia's 🇳🇦 vast coastline. Most of them have been destroyed by the sea, sun and wind but some of them are still visible.
The Zeila got stranded in 25 August 2008 about 14 kms south of Henties Bay.
It is an amazing sight as you watch this ship get hammered by the strong waves and know that it will be a matter of time until you will not be able to see it anymore.
We then arrived at Henties Bay and went for lunch. Chose a very nice cozy spot that we read on TripAdvisor that served fresh fish. We had a seafood mix with fresh fish.
The fish was very good and so was the calamari. Both were breaded.
It was at this restaurant that we met another portuguese couple and took a picture with Wilson Jorge and his Rubicon.
We also had a very nice encounter with 6 young Namibians that wanted to know more about bike riding around the world.
We then proceeded towards Cape Cross. There was no other traffic on the road. It is amazing how it feels like you are alone in the planet when you are in Namibia.
We arrived at Cape Cross and it was very emotional as it was discovered by Portuguese. The 5 castles on the cross and the inscriptions, one of them written in Portuguese remind you of that.
Cape Cross is actual a seal reserve and there are thousands of seals around. They are everywhere and where they are not, their smell is ...
It is unreal to see so many animals together, listening to their sounds and see how awkward they are on land and yet so graceful in the water.
As I was watching the seals I noticed some foxes and started getting the camera ready for a nature kill. As it turns out the seals and foxes have what seems to be a symbiotic relationship and they live together in harmony. It seems that the foxes do not kill any seal but will eat them if they die.
You can literally walk among the seals and watch them far in the distance as they enjoy the cold water of the Atlantic Ocean.
We then made our way back to Swakopmund enjoying once again the winding asphalt road in the middle of beautiful sandy stretches on both sides.
As we are traveling early tomorrow we went to fill up our tanks and while I was waiting, someone approached me and told me he liked my bike and first time he had seen one had been in a rally many years ago and he had drawn it for the owner. I told him if he liked to draw mine he should. I pushed the bike forward and he started to sketch at this unbelievable speed. His name is Ricky and he has been drawing since he was two years old. In 15 minutes he was able to encompass what I see in my GSA. It was surreal to see a true street Artist at work.
It was a calm and relaxing day with some historical relevance mixed in and great encounters.

Make Life a Ride !

Cape Cross

Facebook post with some photos of the DAY

Click HERE for all the photos of the DAY !

Encounters - Ricky, The Artist

Tem nos acontecido vários eventos caricatos na nossa viagem em África. O importante é estar pronto a reconhecer as oportunidades e depois deixar o evento acontecer.
Aqui está um exemplo de mais um ...

Facebook post with a video of the Encounter

Riding in arid Namibia

Here is a video of the arid conditions in Namibia. Ground is hard packed so great for the GSA ...

Encounters - Poverty

As you travel through Africa we see poverty all around and it makes us think how privileged we are to have a roof over our heads and food to eat every day. Yet we seem to find things to pick on and discuss and get upset about, most of the time for no reason or without any possibility to change them in any way.
Here for most people there is no stress on what to dress for the day or whether they are looking good or getting too fat or worrying which car to get next.
These 6 kids welcomed us as we arrived at our lunch place and started speaking to us immediately. They loved the bike and they specially liked the Superman I have on the beak.
We went in and had this most scrumptious meal and good time. When we came out they were still there waiting to have a talk about what it was like to travel to so many countries. They of course had not had anything to eat and probably would not have until that evening if at all.
They did not beg, they just spoke to us and wanted to hear why I had so many lights, etc etc.
In the end we bought each a sandwich which they thanked us profusely for and gave them some stickers which they proudly wore on their jerseys as it added color to their well worn clothing.
Through the whole encounter they smiled and were most welcoming.
We gave them some things, they gave me reason to think and ponder how we live our lives.
In my eyes I was the greatest receiver ...

Facebook post with some photos of the Encounter 

Encounters - Wilson Jorge

As we were making our way from Swakopmund to Cape Cross in Namibia 🇳🇦 , we were passed by a Rubicon (this is the top of the off-road vehicles so when they pass, you notice). I also noticed that the pulling rope was green, yellow and red.
As it was getting close to lunch time we decided to stop in Hentiesbaai and found a very nice seafood restaurant.
As we were seating, Paula mentioned she thought the people behind us were speaking Portuguese, so I asked them "São portugueses ?", which they replied yes.
It turns out Wilson Jorge was the owner of the Rubicon and he like me likes to have the Portuguese colors showing.
Here is a picture of Wilson and I and our vehicles.

Facebook post with some photos of the Encounter

Sossusvlei, NM to Swakopmund, NM

Today we travelled from the Sossusvlei area north towards Swakopmund. In the way we would go past Solitaire and Walvis Bay. We would also cross the Tropic of Capricorn.
There was quite a lot of wind when we started but it died down within the first 30 minutes. Temperatures went as high as 32C in the desert and as low as 16 C as we approached the coast.
It was 345kms, with 300kms on dirt and the final ones on asphalt. We went over two passes and had lunch in a gorgeous location with a most beautiful African scenery unfolding before our eyes.
Our first stop would be in Solitaire, aptly named by the wife of the person who founded it because like the well known diamond that stands alone on the ring finger of a lady, the town has nothing else around it. The main attraction for us was the apple strudel from the local bakery.
"More than 20+ years ago a Scottish adventurer moved to the town and opened the bakery. A man bigger than life in all aspects, Percy Cross “Moose” McGregor, was a wonderful baker and started selling a variety of bakery items including a German apple pie (Apfeistrudel), made from an old family recipe. Once there, it was clear that his pie and warm, friendly attitude soon became the reason thousands of people — local and worldwide — come to Solitaire."
Unfortunately "Moose" passed away in January 2014 so we could not meet him, but fortunately the Apple strudel gets made every day and you can sit, and eat, and people watch on the large outdoor covered patio.
It was very good and well worth the stop.
For the bike, the main attraction was the fuel and it was while we were filling up that we met Joao de Almeida, an Angolan that pilots the hot air balloons that you can take to see the region from the air.
We then moved on through the most amazing countryside. There is no substitute to seeing a country riding on the back of a motorcycle. It is an amazing experience and when the sceneries are beautiful even better. Your senses are constantly being perked up for new experiences and even though riding on dirt is not easy it makes it very special as you think of yourself an old-timer adventurer riding the plains and discovering new worlds. My Portuguese DNA was having a full day. Vasco da Gama, Bartolomeu Dias, Diogo Cão and so many other's genes stirred in satisfaction and made me smile wide inside my helmet.
The next stop was for nourishment and after looking for over 30 minutes of riding for a suitable shade (there just is no shade in the desert), we found this man made structure that we could hide under and enjoy our lunch. It was here that we took what I consider one of the best pictures so far that really shows Africa in all its glory. The wide spaces that seem go on forever in its most peculiar colors and very native vegetation and surrounded by mountains in the distance.
We also had the opportunity to meet some locals that were traveling with school children.
We then moved on towards Walvis Bay and as we approached there was a significant decrease of temperature. We could also smell the ocean.
We stopped and had another local encounter with two young people that were taking pictures and that evening would be going to the matric (last high school year) dance (like the prom). His pink suit was an omen for what was to come next because as we started looking around the water we saw hundreds of pink flamingos. We then began our quest for the perfect picture of the flamingos. We moved to different parts of the bay to look for that perfect combination of flamingo, ocean and sunlight.
What beautiful and elegant creatures, the way they walk in the ocean is absolutely beautiful. It is a slow motion dance that hypnotizes you.
The final part of our journey was on a road that borders the ocean on the left and it has sand dunes on the right. At any moment you can turn left and go very close to the ocean front which is totally unspoiled and raw. The waves crush down strongly and the wind blows on probably one of the most harshest coastlines I have experienced.
But the scenery is unique. We arrived as the sun was setting and the images were unforgettable.
For dinner we went to Jetty 1905 where we were surrounded by water as the restaurant in on top of stilts at the end of a jetty that enters into the Atlantic Ocean.
The ambience is very good and the food was delicious.
What another outstanding day.

Make Life a Ride !

Pink Flamingos in Walvis Bay, NM

Facebook post with some photos of the DAY

Click HERE for all the photos of the DAY !

Encounters - Joao Almeida, the Balloonist

As we were filling gas in Solitaire, Namibia 🇳🇦, I started speaking Portuguese with Paula and someone asked us if we were Portuguese.
João de Almeida was born in Angola 🇦🇴 and is a balloon pilot in Solitaire.
Here is a picture of us together with the pump attendant which also dabbled with some words in Portuguese.
Before he left, João gave me some postcards of his business.
If you ever get to Solitaire, look up João and maybe go on balloon ride with him.

Facebook post with some photos of the Encounter 

Sossusvlei and Deadvlei, NM

For our day in Namibia, I left the bike behind at the Lodge and went with Paula explore two of the wonders of Namibia, Sossusvlei and Deadvlei.
We had to travel on dirt roads to get to the gates at Sesriem and as we knew, motorcycles were not allowed.
We had to travel over 60kms to get to the Deadvlei and the scenery was other worldly. The dunes so large overlooking the road where one travels is difficult to explain. It is a Sea of Sand all around.
In the park we saw different animals and the pictures of them on the foreground and dunes on the background came out great.
We stopped close to a couple of dunes and walked quite close and actually saw people attempting to go up to the top.
Spoke to one afterwards and he mentioned that once you are walking on the dune one loses the perspective of how large it is and he kept thinking he was close to the top but never got there. He made it 3/4 up the dune.
The last 5kms by car to get to the Deadvlei have to be done in a 4x4 as it is a sea of sand. Would have been great to have had the GSA and tried it.
The Land Rover driver was excellent and we seemed to float over the sand.
He dropped us and told us we still had to walk another km to get to the Deadvlei. It surely felt longer but the sight that waited us was worth every pace and more.
In the middle of these orange/reddish dunes is what looks like a lake but it is made of white rock and there are dry trees that come out of the rock in a most peculiar way.
The whole place feels very spiritual as if you are looking back in time at when earth was started or may be go forward and see how it will end. You cannot but feel deeply impacted by what is all around you. I have been to many places in this world. This is in the top 5. When you walk away, I did it stepping backwards and keeping my eyes still on it for a while as I stepped away.
I had been told it was special place but only once I was there did I understand. It connected with something very deep in me.
After leaving Deadvlei sat down on a bench under a tree and let all the emotions sink in.
We travelled back on a Land Rover to take the car and then went to see Sesriem Canyon.
It did not compare to the size of Fish River Canyon but it has the particularity that you can see it from the top and also walk in it.
We then made our way back to the lodge still by daylight as I had to clean the air filter of the bike which was filthy. It is now nice and clean and ready for travel.
Another unforgettable day with the major highlight being the Deadvlei where one truly connects to earth and its million of years.

Make Life a Ride !

Facebook post with some photos of the DAY

Click HERE for all the photos of the DAY !

Luderitz, NM to Sossusvlei, NM

One more day in amazing Namibia 🇳🇦.
This time we left Luderitz and made our way towards the Sossusvlei area.
Before we left Luderitz we took a short drive to see Agave beach.
After yesterday wrestling with the wind, I was a bit apprehensive that I would have to eat some sand for breakfast but the wind was much calmer and we could enjoy much better the scenery of the dunes on the side of the road.
We did about 120kms on asphalt and really enjoyed as for the next 3 days or even longer we would have no more asphalted roads.
We stopped to refuel and get some supplies at Aus and saw the destruction the Namibian desert can do to a tire. It was from a 4x4 of a German couple who told me the look is much worst than what they felt when the tire blew out. On a motorbike with only two tires I cannot afford for something like this to happen so I would have to be supper attentive on our Iver than 300kms of dirt we would face during this day.
So let me tell you about these 300kms. When I prepared the trip, for me this one would always be one of the most difficult days because it is a very long way and there is absolutely nowhere in the middle to stop so once you start you have to finish or then sleep in a tent or in the car on the way.
The other issue I was concerned about was the conditions of the road. Dry packed is good, sand or lots of small stones that gather up and create ruts is bad for motorcycles.
As I got into the dirt road I knew this was not going to be a piece of cake, there were lots of ruts and if you got off a track the bike would go unstable and start to weave from side to side. I had to get up and start riding standing up but as I am not in top tip shape to be able to ride over 4 hours standing up this was looking like a daunting task. Time to stop and change tire pressures to 1.3 bar. Could not go lower because there were enough exposed rocks that could damage the rims. That helped a lot and bike was much more stable so I now could ride sitting down most of the time and only get up if weaves were stronger.
Temoerature was about 35C so being in the sun starting to take its toll. It was one of the toughest rides I have done and was glad we took the decision not to come two up in the bike. It would have been too dangerous and we would have to slow down dramatically the speed and would not have made it through in the time we would have in a day.
Stopped a number of times to hydrate (not enough) and take some energy food but when I got to the lodge I was totally beaten down. Took a good cold ice beer to cheer me up. Not or the faint at heart and if you ever do this route on a motorcycle make sure you know how to ride well off-road, have the right knobby tires and are prepared psychologically and physically for a long day.
On the way we also had a number of encounter with Oryx. What a beautiful animal. Most of the time they were by themselves. They may have been 4 or 5 in the same area but they were never close to each other.
As we were approaching the lodge the last 20kms have deeper sand but the Michelin Anakee Wilds behaved greatly and I was able to make it without any incident. Very happy of the many hours I have spent doing sand roads as had I not had them it would have been a more daunting experience.
I was very happy when we saw the gates to our lodge. The sun was starting to set so we made it just in time.
Riding Namibia 🇳🇦 is a treat because it is just you and nature and such a beautiful one at that. We saw less than 10 cars for over 4 hours and over 300kms ...
Another unforgettable day.

Make Life a Ride !

Facebook post with some photos of the DAY

Click HERE for all the photos of the DAY !

Fish River Canyon, NM to Luderitz, NM

What we thought would probably be one of the easiest days turned pretty adventurous.
We woke up to another beautiful day and we had about 100 kms of dirt and 300 kms of asphalt to get to Luderitz.
Breakfast was very nice and had a double expresso so feeling great as we left.
In the morning we had someone help us with our bags and when we said we were from Portugal 🇵🇹, he started speaking Portuguese. His name is Manuel Crespo and his Dad was from Angola 🇦🇴  and his mother was Namibian 🇳🇦. He was very nice and we took a picture together with the bike.
We stopped about 20kms later at the Canyon Roadhouse to put gas and get our sim cards (every country we get in we get local sim cards with a data plan and some minutes for urgent calls between us). Price of communication is very accessible and we have been getting 3GB plans for about 30€.
The Roadhouse is a pretty neat place as it is the only place for miles that you can put gas so most bikes that travel these roads stop there. I added the BMW Motorrad Fans sticker to an already busy with stickers pump.
We left an started our 80Kms or so of dirt road that was pretty easy. As there was not a lot of wind we could not keep too close as the dust cloud lingered on.
We made it to the asphalt road and started east towards Luderitz.
The scenery is spectacular. We did not come across many cars and we felt we were the only people in the universe for long periods of time. It is also interesting that there is very little animal activity on the road and seldom do you see road kill.
We stopped at Aus for lunch in a great place. We ate outside and the food was delicious. Everywhere you go you feel the strong German influence and the majority of tourists you see are Germans. Clearly there is a strong link that stays after colonization.
We enjoyed the beautiful sun as the weather was not too hot (what a difference a day makes as yesterday was 10C higher).
As we left Aus, we saw a sign to see the Wild horses. We took this small dirt road (fun ;-)) and were able to see two that were close by eating the grass. There were many more but they were too far to see by the naked eye. There was a German guy with a 1030mm (I did not even know these things existed) lens and we took a picture of the viewer.
Every place we stop we want to stay much longer and enjoy it but it is difficult to do so and arrive in time so we have to strike a balance between time spent and arriving at destination in time. Tough decisions ...
On the way to Luderitz with about 60kms to go the wind picked up and it got stronger and stronger and when there was 40kms to go, it howled and it actually blew the sand onto the road and on top of us. It was wild. For 40Kms I had sand hitting me on my left side and coming into helmet. What an adventure. I was happy I was on a GSA, which is quite heavy and does not have many things that the wind can catch on to. I cannot imagine a bike with plastics on those cross winds. I am sure it would not have made it.
We eventually got to the hotel which is right on the water, our room window is within a stone´s throw of the water.
To finalize our busy day we wanted to still visit Diaz (should be Dias) Point. There is a 25km dirt road to get there and we did it. The scenery as we got close to the ocean was great and the conditions averse to humans. No wonder sailors did not want to come to these shores.
We eventually arrived at Diaz (should be Dias) Point and got one of my very favorite pictures as the sun was coming down.
We have by now thousands of pictures and it is very tough to choose what to show and what not to show as it is impossible to explain the sights and emotions we have gone through in this trip. Highly recommended !
As we were close to the sea, what better than a seafood restaurant (and a good one at that) for some prawns and fresh sole.
Another day to remember ...

Make Life a Ride !

Diaz Point

Facebook post with some photos of the DAY

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Springbok, ZA to Fish River Canyon, NM

So today we entered Namibia. We have heard and read so much about this country. How it used to be a German colony and how its government today is ruled by a tribe that survived better the colonization than another tribe which was nearly annihilated in a fierce battle with the Germans. A country very sparsely populated with a unique landscape shaped by a very harsh ocean and a desert.
We had a very nice breakfast and left Springbok. Usually breakfasts in South Africa have been very well served as South Africans have taken upturn tradition of big breakfasts from the English. We had about 100Kms to do before getting to the border.
The border crossing was uneventful and we were very well treated on both sides. The only surprise was a tax, that one has to pay to travel on Namibia roads. As there is no visa required, it was fine to spend the money (about 12€ for the bike) to go towards the roads.
One of the first things we noticed was the difference in features between the indigenous South Africans and the Namibians. The latter are better looking and have sharper features. We also felt more humbleness and better service so far.
Our stop for the night was in a lodge 25Kms from the Fish River Canyon, which is the largest canyon in Africa and the second largest in the world, losing only to the Grand Canyon in the USA.
To arrive there we had to do over 100kms on dirt road. No problem for the bike but the wind was very strong and temperatures reached over 40C so I had to stop to hydrate so I could keep up the energy and concentration level.
This was Paula´s first time driving on a dirt road. She was a champ and quickly learned that it is all about slow and no jerky movements.
We arrived at our destination and were quite impressed by it. It is set in the middle of a boulder park with different size boulders all around. Our specific lodge has a rock as one of the walls (in the bathroom). The inside with the net over the bed was magic. Top accommodations, great food and great service. 5*s all around.
After freshening up we took the car and went to see the sunset at the Fish River Canyon. It is a grand sight. Difficult to explain or even show pictures. One has to be there to fully experience nature at its grandest.
The sunset was spectacular !
We then made our way back to the lodge where a feast waited for us for dinner.
No internet meant we were early in bed and we were able to fully rest from another magic day.

Make Life a Ride !

Facebook post with some photos of the DAY

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Cape Town, ZA to Springbok, ZA

We were supposed to leave to Springbok in the morning but due to a leak I detected on the bike, decided to take the bike in to the BMW dealership. We chose the Dornford BMW in Stellenbosch and were amazed by their service.
Arrived there pretty early and as the bike was being checked over I had a great breakfast (in the dealership which was a first for me). They even used a laser probe to check where the leak was coming from.
After much discussion with mechanics and Chris, the service manager (on the pic), because the leak was small, I decided not to stop the bike for a 2 day service to properly fix the leak but actually continue on and keep an eye on the leak until we got to Johannesburg in about 3,000 kms. Keeping fingers crossed it was the right decision.
I was also able to get a sticker from the local BMW Cape Town Club.
This delayed our exit from Cape Town and we only left at about 4pm which meant that we would arrive after 10pm in Springbok. This was over 3 hours of riding at night. Am I glad I have great lights on the bike. When I turn them on, it feels like the sun has come out …
There was a lot of construction on the way and some of it was one lane traffic which meant we had to stop and this delayed our trip even more.
We made it directly from Cape Town to Springbok without any proper stop, as I used the construction stops to get off the bike and stretch.
After we arrived, we still went to local gas station (only place open in town) and bought some supplies.
The place we stayed was very humble but clean and had a great breakfast.

Make Life a Ride !

Facebook post showing some photos of the DAY

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Cape Town, ZA

Day 5 of African Twin Adventure.
We arrived in Cape Town and are spending a couple of days here with family.
Today I wanted to ride a bit by myself (without being tethered to the car) and wanted to explore a number of passes as well as visit a place where we could enjoy tastings of wine, chocolate, beer, biltong etc.
Left from home and rode to Wellington where the first pass started. It is called Bain's Kloof Pass which is a national monument. It is quite narrow and there is not a lot of traffic on it. It is supposed to be one of the Western Cape's most scenic routes.
The pass is set high in the mountains on Route 303 between Wellington and Ceres. Completed in 1853 the 30km pass was built by Andrew Geddes Bain - possibly the country's most famous road engineer, despite having had no formal engineering training (he and his son Thomas collectively built over 30 passes in the country).
To drive its bends and turns brings one right up against the Limietberg Mountain with incredible views out over the Wellington Valley. Later there are views onto the river and across the valley on the other side.
I toggled between slow speed (to take photos) and high speed (to enjoy the pass) and stopped once right on top for pictures. Met a couple of bikers and a local couple and spoke to them. Really enjoy the South Africans view on life and their carefree attitude.
After the pass made a quick run to Ceres as I have always enjoyed their fruit juices and wanted to see where they grow the fruit. Unfortunately the whole place is fenced off. Did Michell's Pass. The Pass has both car and train usage.
The next destination was Velliersdorp which was where I would start The Franschhoek Pass. It is one of the more heart-stopping of the passes for views and vistas of the surrounding valleys, gorges and mountains, particularly the drop down to the Franschhoek River from the summit.
In terms of scenery, sheer drops and panoramic views the Franschhoek Pass is difficult to beat, and tourists rate it as one of the must-dos of the valley.
Enjoyed the pass riding with two other GSAs.
It was getting quite late and I had not eaten lunch yet so made my way to meet the rest of the family at the Spicy Route in Paarl, a place where artisans come together to share their art. Wonderful place where we were able to taste a collection of flavours and a celebration of Cape cultures.
We were on our way home when I looked at the map and realized we were quite close to the city so to finish the day took a quick ride to the cable car station on Table Mountain. The views were outstanding and one cannot help but wonder how this mountain has witnessed so many changes to the city down below.
It was a great sunset where I met a number of people that wanted to speak about the bike and our adventure. I have added two pictures of a Nigerian gentleman and his son and three Spaniards from Madrid that wanted pictures to remember a Portuguese, that they met on Table Mountain, that was traveling throughout Africa on a motorcycle.
Finished the day with a perfectly cooked and seasoned fillet steak.

Make Life a Ride !

View of Cape Town from Table Mountain

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Mossel Bay, ZA to Cape Town, ZA

I thought today would be special but it surpassed my expectations.
Last night we got to Mossel Bay too late so no chance to see the Indian Ocean.
As we had a room with a view, this morning first thing was to look out and check out the ocean. It never fails to impress.
Breakfast was very nice and we also had a great view.
We then rode to The Point in Mossel Bay which is very nice. The coastline is rocky and a number of families played on the beach.
Some people have asked me if we have passed any uncomfortable situation related to race and the answer is no. At no time we have felt threatened or out of place. On the contrary we have always felt welcomed which has surpassed my expectations.
We then made our way west towards Cape Agulhas on the N2. The road is in great condition and we witness some amazing sights. We could not help but stare in wonderment at the beautiful cultivated fields and had to pinch ourselves as it is so different from other countries in Africa. I can safely say that South Africa 🇿🇦 is unique in the world. It is the only country in Africa that is highly developed and in certain parts could be compared to the best in the western world, yet in some parts it is as African as its geography warrants it.
We had to turn off the N2, towards the south to reach the Cape. The road was very quiet and also very beautiful.
As we neared the Cape, the wind picked up and the temperature dropped. We surely were glad the sun was shining.
We went through a number of small towns, ending on the most picturesque which is Agulhas.
We first entered a nature park and then made our way to the southern-most point on the African continent.
I was even able to sneak my bike through the stones and sticks and got her to the exact spot of the marker.
As time raced on, we stopped for lunch.
The sun was starting to go down and we still had 2.5 hours to go to Cape Town which we did in one swoop.
Arrived at night and got lots of wind crossing Lowry's Pass.
Had a great reception at family's house and had a feast for dinner.
This was another great day that I will never forget.

Make Life a Ride !

Video of sea in Mossel Bay

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Colesberg, ZA to Mossel Bay, ZA

Another day riding in Africa. It was in my opinion the best so far.
A great combination of perfect weather, beautiful scenery and a delicious lunch made this trip from the Northern Cape to the Indian ocean a memorable one.
We started in Colesberg, with English breakfast and then rode to Graaf Reinert in the heart of the Karoo. The scenery was very beautiful. Long stretches of road with traditional karoo vegetation and with mountains in the far distance.
Our lunch stop was really nice and it is amazing how one can just get into any city without ever having been there and look up information on restaurants and choose the one that is most suitable.
For us it is very important to see the bike and the car and in this case we had outside seating in a most picturesque ambiance.
The people were very nice. Again most of them lead with Afrikaans and then switch to English. We have really enjoyed "rubbing shoulders" with the people of the land. White or black and many different backgrounds does not matter, they all see themselves as South Africans and are working at building up this great country. We had forgotten how advanced it is compared to other countries in Africa and how pleasant it is to live here. I am sure there are many issues in the large cities like Johannesburg, but out in the country we never felt any discomfort and were always very well received.
Time was running so we had to get back on the road and although the morning ride had been very nice, the afternoon part was even better as we started getting into the mountains and eventually came down towards the sea.
Did not see many police on the road and we rode most of time alone on the roads. Very different from yesterday where there was plenty of traffic.
Unfortunately we arrived in the dark and were not able to see the ocean yet. First thing tomorrow morning after I wake up will be looking out of the window.
As we were nearing George, the weather got very cold so I stopped, to dress up warmly, next to a field with some ostrich. They were running around but unfortunately we were not able to get any good pictures then. Later on the calmed down and we snapped away.
We also saw many troops of monkeys on the road. They are quite dangerous as they do not move away when they hear the car coming and/or hooting.
The bike continues to leak oil but not a lot do it looks like it I will make it to Cape Town where I have a service scheduled already to fix it. Very happy it happened in South Africa where BMW Motorrad is so well represented.

Make Life a Ride !

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Midrand, ZA to Colesberg, ZA

One more day riding in Africa.
Midrand to Colesberg.
Left family after taking my nephew for his first ride on a GSA.
To arrive in Colesberg in the Northern Cape, one has to ride through the Free State, which has a very unique landscape.
Saw lots (over 15 patrols) of police on the road. Many of the patrols had laser guns and were checking for speed. Highly recommend keeping speed limits. I thought USA 🇺🇸  was the highest in terms of traffic police per inhabitant, but South Africa 🇿🇦  surely feels even higher.
Most people we met first address you in Afrikaans and then switch to English once they realize you do not "praat" (speak).
The best meals to have in South Africa 🇿🇦  is steak. We stopped in Kroonstad and I had a T-bone and Paula a fillet. The greek salad and the sweet potato fries were great. The coffee was horrible.
In Bloemfontein we stopped at the BMW Motorrad dealer and the bike was a big success. They had never seen anything like it. Lots of photos were taken.
The bike is losing oil so will have to stop in Cape Town to change sealants. Not too much oil is coming out so we should be able to make the 1,000 kms we have left to Cape Town.
On the way got a beautiful Southern Hemisphere sunset. Just gorgeous ...
Longer day than we expected but we are safe and sound at our guesthouse for the night.

Make Life a Ride !

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Eating at Piri-Piri

If there is a place I will never forget is the Piri-Piri restaurant. My Mom, Dad and sister used to go there nearly every week when we lived in Maputo.

So after 40 years, it was a great experience to enjoy the food from this establishment. All well "oiled" with 2M beer.

It was good food and the memories made it excellent. 

Maputo, MZ to Midrand, ZA

So after many months of planning, our Africa Adventure has started with the first leg from Maputo to Midrand.

Woke up quite early (5:45am) to get ready and get the bike out of a friend´s garage at 6:30 am. Then went to do a quick tour of the places I remembered the best and take some pictures.

Went to see the house where I grew up and the park where I used to play when I was young. Difficult to explain all the emotions that went through my mind. TOP !

Then went to see the church that I remember as as young man going on Sunday afternoons and watch the great movies of that time (Ben Hur, The Ten Commandments ...).

Next was to visit the road by the sea, called "marginal" and seeing the beaches where I remember playing soccer with my Dad and his and my friends.

I would have easily have spent the whole day visiting different places but I was on a clock to get to Johannesburg before the sun went down.

Still went to the hotel for breakfast and met with Xixo and Robie and discussed some more about the route.

At about 10am left Maputo towards Johannesburg through Ressano Garcia.

Riding in Mozambique is very different from riding in South Africa. Roads are not in as good condition, so much more hard core. All asphalt, although in some places there was only one lane so traffic was stopped often which delayed the trip more than I expected but I suppose that is the beauty of riding in Africa. Adjust, adjust, adjust ...

Going through Boane brough a smile to my face as I could remember my Dad´s army stories when he was stationed there.

Passing through the border was an event as there were many more people than I expected and plenty of confusion all around.

It took me 2 hours to cross the border but eventually made it and entered into South Africa.

The way from Ressano Garcia to Johannesburg took me through some nice twisty roads and well known places. Could see the Drakensberg and the Lebombo Mountains in the distance. My Dad studied in White River at a boarding school so going past the sign that pointed to the turn felt great. Other places I remember as a young man in the many trips we did to Johannesburg or to the Kruger National Park were: Komatipoort, Malelane, Nelspruit and MachadoDorp

Stopped just outside Nelspruit for lunch. It was advertised that they served Brazilian Chicken but it was not anything of the kind. Not a great lunch ...

Finally got to Johannesburg at 6pm after a long day riding and went to visit my school friends that I had not seen for many decades. In less than five minutes we were speaking as if I had never left. The mark of true friends. Great bunch of guys !

Riding from the restaurant back to family house at 10pm where we are staying was an interesting event after having heard some stories from the guys.

No red light stopping and always moving at different speed from the cars finally made it home by 11pm.
Wow, what a day.

Make Life a Ride !

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